Studi di attivita’ biologica cosmeceutica di derivati di specie della zona sud orientale amazzonica ecuadoriana

The South American Natives, Shuar and Achuar people and their ethnomedical culture constituted the background subject of the PhD research, performed both in Ecuador (Salesian Politechnic University, Quito), and in Italy (Pharmaceutical biology labs, University of Ferrara). Based on ethnomedical and ethnocosmetic tradition, Oenocarpus bataua was chosen as Amazonian plant speciessubject of the research. Cosmetic plant derivatives were selected, extracted, characterized and studied. AIMS The research has been focused on: . Botanical source identification; . Selection and extraction of plant oil native of south eastern Ecuador; . Chemical characterization of selected oil; . Prototype development of cosmetic formulations employing Oenocarpus bataua oil; . Bioactivity assays regarding cosmetic applications; . Testing of alternatives extraction methods adequate to rural areas; . ECOCERT cosmetic prototypes; . GC-MS analysis of non-saponifiable fraction of O. bataua; . Oil purification studies by supercritical fluids; . Chemical and physical stability of ECOCERT cosmetic prototypes. RESULTS Oenocarpus bataua derivatives have potential cosmetic applications, in line with Natives Ecuadorian ethnocosmetic traditions. The oil extracted from the date pulp was chemically characterized and it showed a very similar composition to the olive oil. The extraction method does not influence significantly the oil composition and quality. Moreover the oil non-saponifiable fraction was investigated, together with the polar fraction. Cosmetic features were also studied; the O. bataua oil showed a high moisturizing property, while a low performance was recorded for cutaneous elasticity. Furthermore, 14 cosmetic products were developed and 3 emulsion products certifiable according to ECOCERT standards. The chemical and physical stability gave good results as well as the microbiological one achieved with preservatives permitted by the ECOCERT standards. CONCLUSIONS Many Amazonian species have a widespread ethnocosmetic potential. The studied species allowed us to isolate and chemically characterize the lipid fraction, one of the most interesting. The O. bataua oil showed a good moisturizing property and allows to produce diverse cosmetic formulations. In particular, the prototypes obtained following the ECOCERT standards have an important potential application for development of eco-friendly cosmetic supply chain from Amazonian origin.