Dualistic Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Based on Phenylpropanoids from Ajuga Reptans

Our continued interest in the research and development of cosmetic active ingredients deriving from natural sources, led us to investigate the potential of a purified extract of Ajuga reptans, a plant belonging to the family Labiatae known for its traditional use in skin healing. The extracts derives from a biotechnology platform componed by meristematic cell colture, developed in the frame of a NTFP (non timber forest product) project, an is characterized by high content in phenylpropanoid, of which teupolioside represents the majority component. The latter is a phenylpropanoid glucoside, structurally correlated echinacoside, known in the literature for the antioxidant properties. This study was conducted with the purpose of evaluating the applicability of the Ajuga reptans extract within different cosmetic formulations. In particular Photochemiluminescence (PCL) was used to proof the antioxidant capacity of cosmetic formulations containing the product, in relation to the change of the title of teupolioside. Furthermore, UVA and UVB filtering properties were also investigated. The results of the study showed relevant antioxidant capacity of the finished formulation against superoxide anion, the main reactive oxygen species, responsible for skin aging and significant synergic capacities to filter UV radiation