Mixing depth experiments were carried out on the dissipative St. Georges Beach (Gironde Estuary) in September 1999 (SWAMGIR 2) and May 2000 (SWAMGIR 4). The mixing depths were found to reach maximum values of about 0.15 m during SWAMGIR 2, and 0.1 m during SWAMGIR 4. The analysis of results compares measured data with data calculated using the formula proposed by FERREIRA et al. (2000). Two approaches were used: a) an averaged approach, using global slope and breaking wave height at all points, and b) a non-averaged approach, considering varying breaking wave heights and slopes across the beach. Comparisons show that in general the formula works well for both approaches with calculated results within the magnitude of measured values. However, while the non-averaged approach produced significantly better results on the low-tide terrace, the standard deviation of the difference between calculated and measured values was much higher.
Mixing depth experiments on an estuarine beach; St. Georges Beach, Gironde (France)
CIAVOLA, Paolo;CORBAU, Corinne Sabine;FALATI, Shahram;
2004
Abstract
Mixing depth experiments were carried out on the dissipative St. Georges Beach (Gironde Estuary) in September 1999 (SWAMGIR 2) and May 2000 (SWAMGIR 4). The mixing depths were found to reach maximum values of about 0.15 m during SWAMGIR 2, and 0.1 m during SWAMGIR 4. The analysis of results compares measured data with data calculated using the formula proposed by FERREIRA et al. (2000). Two approaches were used: a) an averaged approach, using global slope and breaking wave height at all points, and b) a non-averaged approach, considering varying breaking wave heights and slopes across the beach. Comparisons show that in general the formula works well for both approaches with calculated results within the magnitude of measured values. However, while the non-averaged approach produced significantly better results on the low-tide terrace, the standard deviation of the difference between calculated and measured values was much higher.I documenti in SFERA sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.
